traditional new home project

[SDR]

Softwood isn't as hard on the knees as hardwood ?

Whut ?


Yrs, S

[djswan]

nice... My suspicion is the cat is cousin eddy.

[cousinbirgco]

Gosh, you guys are too kind.....

[SDR]

Well -- I didn't suppose you would expect to get only kudos for all this work; friends are supposed to help friends by "reflecting" -- holding up a mirror -- on what they see ?

Of course, Cousin Swan is likely to say almost anything ! That's what wood-poets do . . .

S D R

[cousinbirgco]

December 21st is fast approaching which means
the arrival of the shortest day of the year,
also known as the Winter Solstice or the first day of Winter.
It also means our thoughts are more focused on energy consumption/conservation and what the future
may hold for this most important national and world issue.


( frost on the pumpkin ?)




The future of all residential and commercial building may someday include (and hopefully soon)
an MPG rating similar to automobiles or energy star rated appliances.

The ratio between energy consumption and
building square footage could establish a baseline for comparison
gathered on an annual basis from a building's utility bill.

To see how this might work, we take a typical 2000 square foot house and look at the electricity and natural gas consumption over a 12 month period.

The MPG formula might look something like this:

$1200 annual electric bill divided by 2000 sq. ft equals $.60 cents

or it takes .60 cents per square foot to provide electrical power
to this particular house.
(a baseline of what is consuming electrical power needs to be established.
In this case lighting, appliances, and computers)

Next.....
$1800 annual natural gas bill divided by 2000 sq. ft. = .90 cents

or it requires about .90 cents per square ft. to provide heat, hot water,
and clothes drying by gas dryer.

There are obvious caveats with this system of measurement, most
certainly the fact that all energy consumed in any building is highly influenced by the usage habits of it occupants.
Yet, this method could be valuable because it would establish an approximation of efficiency and becomes even more important as data is compiled for comparison among a geographic population of housing or commercial buildings.

Next, we can compare the utility figures of our traditional new home project and it looks something like this:

$900 annual electric bill divided by 3350 sq. ft. = .27 cents

or it takes about .27 cents per square ft. to provide electric power
for lighting, appliances, computers, etc.

$1150 annual natural gas bill divided by 3350 sq. ft. =.34 cents

or it takes about .34 cents per square foot to provide natural gas for
heating (radiant) domestic hot water, cooking and gas dryer.


We can even take this a step further by looking at a future
investment in solar PV panels which could reduce our electric bill to
less than $100 per year.

$100 annual electric bill divided by 3350 sq. ft. = .03 cents
or about 3 cents per sq. ft per year for electrical power.

This rating system is not perfect but it does establish
a method of gaining some insight or understanding
of energy efficiency when similar sized buildings are compared.


An energy comparison ratio is an exercise anyone can do
to see how your house might stack up in the energy efficiency equation.
It's possible that should such ratings become standard
in the near future, efforts to increase building energy efficiency would accelerate because a
conservation/consumption competition between housing
would make more efficient buildings more valuable and
residents/potential homebuyers aware of this fact.

[phansford]

I don't know how to tell you this.... but there is frost on your pumpkins.

[cousinbirgco]

thanks phansford, you're the best.

[csintexas]

You left out a key factor and that is the cost of the mortgage.
That is also an energy cost.

I would also factor in occupancy since power usage is greatly effected by this.

[cousinbirgco]

csintexas wrote:

I would also factor in occupancy since power usage is greatly effected by this.

cousinbirgco wrote:

There are obvious caveats with this system of measurement, most certainly the fact that all energy consumed in any building is highly influenced by the usage habits of it occupants.

shheeesh.......nobody pays any attention to me.



csintexas wrote:

You left out a key factor and that is the cost of the mortgage.
That is also an energy cost.

Chris, please explain, you lost me on this one.

[cousinbirgco]

As we enter the dead of winter in southern N.Y. state, it's a good time to review how our choice of cellulose insulation has performed and what characteristics made it a worthwhile material to install.
Those familiar with cellulose insulation, know that it is an environmentally friendly material, manufactured from mostly recycled newspaper and treated with boric acid for fire and microbial resistance. It takes relatively little energy to produce (low embedded energy) and does a great job filling small gaps and crevices to reduce energy wasting air flow. The price for the material itself has come down about 25% in the past few years and makes it an inexpensive, environmentally responsible choice for insulation.

Winter temperatures in our area can range from single digits at night to mostly mid 30's during the day, but a typical 24 hour period might see a 20-25 degree low at night to a mid to upper 30's during the day.


(Loose fill or blown cellulose insulation during attic installation)

For a quick review, our traditional carriage house design specified an
11 inch exterior double-wall for an R-value of 38 and attic insulation
of 12 - 30 inches or more for an average R value of approximately 70.
An important note, all cellulose insulation was installed without a vapor barrier. (more on this later)

During the coldest months of January and February, natural gas bills average about $240 per month for heating via radiant floor heat, but this utility bill also includes the cost of domestic hot water, gas cooking, and gas clothes drying. The solar hot water boiler is also supplemented by an evacuated tube solar hot water collector which reduces the gas utility bill by about $60/month. Total gas consumption for the year averages about $1150 or a little less than $100 per month.


[/URL]
(Prepping a short rafter span and knee wall to contain cellulose insulation
and provide air flow from soffit vents to ridge vent)


Among the biggest concerns when designing and constructing a super-insulated building are performance, indoor air quality and humidity levels. Too much or too little humidity can make indoor living an unpleasant experience especially during the winter months with excessive humidity usually presenting the greatest challenge. In the past, super-insulated building envelopes were constructed with plastic or other non-permeable barriers which created problems with mold growth inside walls and condensation on windows and interior wall surfaces.

Cellulose insulation has proven to be the right choice for our super-insulated home as interior humidity levels remain at a consistent 34 - 42% with no associated mold, mildew or excessive humidity issues.
The hygroscopic nature of cellulose insulation, which allows it to absorb and release humidity without creating moisture or mildew problems in the material, make it an excellent insulating material for saving energy and helping the environment at the same time.


Next time it snows in your area, take a good look at your roof a day or two after.
An intact blanket of roof snow indicates your insulation is doing its job keeping heat in and energy wasting cold out.

(intact roof snow a few days after a snowfall indicates effective attic insulation)


(stone wall and hanging Cotoneaster)


(Black Birch bending under light snowfall)


(remnants from a nearby barn)


(Koosa Dogwood and ornamental grasses after snowfall)

[cousinbirgco]

With the Winter season in full swing, it's a good time to think about how
much more we can all do to energy detail our homes.
Every exterior penetration is a potential source of air leakage
which can significantly impact utility bills.

The dryer vent can be energy detailed with foam and caulk and
the metal vent pipe can also be covered with an insulated sleeve.


Spray foam is applied to the inside of the cover before and after installation.


After the foam cures, it is cut flush to allow tight installation against the siding. After installing the 4 inch vent pipe, more foam is added to ensure an air tight seal.


All plumbing and electrical penetrations should also be sealed.
Here a fire resistant foam is used to seal against potential basement
air infiltration.


This 12 inch thick exterior wall has kitchen water and drain pipes protected from winter temps as low as minus 5 degrees F.

Exterior electrical outlets, meter pans, and water faucets also need careful attention to prevent expensive heated interior air from exiting the building envelope. If you're not the DIY type, home energy audits are available in most areas and performed by professionals utilizing a blow door test which creates negative air pressure to pinpoint building envelope air leaks. An experienced energy auditor will also give a homeowner suggestions on saving money with necessary equipment upgrades like programmable thermostats or more efficient heating equipment.

A small amount of time and some inexpensive sealing materials can make a big difference in lowering winter and summer energy bills.

[cousinbirgco]

We have talked a lot about the importance of planning and conserving energy when building, remodeling, or restoring an existing structure. It is likely that energy costs to light, heat and cool our homes will continue to increase in the near future. Upgrading new or existing R values for attic spaces is not too difficult. Depending on attic floor configuration, usually a foot or more of cellulose insulation can be added and at a very reasonable cost per square foot.

Wall spaces can be more of a challenge, especially if your existing house is constructed with 2 x 4 studs.
Should a major renovation or construction be in your future, adding an additional 2 x 4 interior wall may be a good possibility for conserving energy and increasing the wall R value to 38 or more.
Here are some of the details to think about if you choose to go the double exterior wall plan.



blocking off window area for cellulose installation


Building the interior side of the double wall is fairly straight forward. Additional 2 x 4 studs can be generally figured at one per linear foot. Heavy lumber components are not needed because a non-structural wall is required in most cases.

Installing blown cellulose insulation is another increased cost to consider but the material is inexpensive, environmentally friendly and will more than pay for itself over the life of a building.

As previously noted, window and door jambs need to be extended and this can usually be accomplished using 3/4 inch finished plywood. I would not recommend this process for historically significant buildings unless a major restoration is planned, including plaster restoration, removing mouldings and safely stripping lead paint.


double wall window jamb extensions

Depending on whether new or existing construction is planned, doors may need to be moved to the interior wall plane or for new construction,
door sills on the exterior need to be extended with a piece of metal flashing, copper is a good choice for this task.


copper sill extension



More problematic for retrofitting existing buildings is making sure electric boxes and any plumbing on exterior walls can be moved without major work.


double wall with electrical boxes and wiring


Keeping the process at a reasonable cost is critical so that payback for the energy investment can be calculated within the overall budget of the project. In the past, super-insulated building envelopes may have been a discretionary option but in the very near future, building one may become a necessity.

[phansford]

I just want to thank you for dumping Peter - I change my id each time I come to the forum - Brice from the top spot on the forum

BTW - The house looks really studly.

[cousinbirgco]

The traditional covered back porch is viewed by some as
an antiquated remnant of a bygone era.
Fortunately, for savvy home buyers and old house buffs,
there has been a resurgence in recent years for building
and restoring this sometimes fanciful yet most practical
of architectural features. It not only serves as a great place
to entertain or relax on a quiet weekend afternoon, but the
covered porch also makes a welcoming extension from the
interior living space to the outdoors. On the practical side,
the natural cooling effect of shading the house from direct
summer sun can mean little need for mechanical air
conditioning. No small feat in this day of skyrocketing energy
costs.
Here's a look at some of the construction techniques we used to
make sure this porch would provide years energy saving enjoyment.


For our traditional covered porch, we start with heavy 2 x 12
sub-floor framing, galvanized tecos and 5/8 inch carriage
bolts to keep the framing safely secured to the first floor band joist.


The porch framing is only about 12 inches off the ground
so it's important to use decay and insect resistant lumber
and to place a heavy plastic material covered with gravel
to prevent vegetation from growing under the porch.


Triple main beams intersect each porch column to carry main
floor loads.
The floor joist framing runs parallel to the length of the porch
so the porch flooring can be run perpendicular to the exterior wall.
This is important so that blowing rain water will
run off the porch along the length of each board with less chance
of trapping water in between. The porch floor is also pitched
about a 1/4 inch to the foot.



Porch flooring consists of 5/4x4 tongue&groove vertical grained fir,
pre-primed on the bottom, sides and end grain before installation.



Even though this is a covered porch, wind driven rain and sun
can take its toll on porch flooring. To minimize water infiltration
between floor boards, latex acrylic caulk is applied to the tongue
and groove of each board before installation of the next. It's also a
good idea to provide blocking between framing members whenever
possible for good air infiltration and drainage.


An important detail for porch floor longevity is capping the end of the porch with a treated board or other weather resistant wood. This cap serves to protect the end grain of the floor boards and is easily replaced should the need ever arise.

more to follow on finishing the porch floor......

[cousinbirgco]

Finishing interior or exterior wood flooring has become
easier in recent years with the introduction of the large
four disc orbital sanding machine.
These sanders stay flat on the material and require
less effort and skill compared to drum type sanders
which can gouge or damage flooring.



Once the floor is sanded smooth, it is vacuumed clean and two
coats of acrylic latex floor stain is applied. I prefer using a solid
deck stain because it lets the wood breathe and doesn't create a
solid paint film which can peel and cause maintenance headaches
later on.


Pitched and perpendicular floor installation assists water drainage


The covered aspect of this porch is fairly straight forward with the
design relying on a partial recess of the framing into the main
structure of the house. This allows for greater structural stability
and protection from severe winds or storms.


In addition to tecos tying the porch roof to the house,
2 x 8 framing is scabbed to the house roof for a more gradual
transition onto the almost flat porch roof from the very steep (13/12) pitch of the main roof.


view looking up to main roof


porch columns are constructed of built up 2 x 6 pressure treated wood
with 3/4 plywood for sizing and additional stability. Galvanized
anchor tie the column securely to the main floor joist framing.


Columns are finished with one by pine boards, glued and finished nailed
with wood spacers to aid air circulation.


Once the framing is completed, 1 x 6 beaded pine ceiling boards are
installed for the finished ceiling.


the ceiling is finished with 2 coats of acrylic latex solid stain.
A light colored ceiling finish also helps to reflect any sunlight
which makes this east facing porch brighter during the day.



more to follow on draining the porch roof..................