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surjones Joined: 14 Mar 2009 Posts: 20	Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Skylight load-bearing? Hey guys great forum and excited to be here! Im starting a project and curious what everyone things I have never seen a skylight with load-bearing running through the middle of the view! Each Skylight has Two 2x12's - In the pics you the 80's brown woodpanel braded to the studs. (which has now been removed now) lol Of course the goal is to remove these and open up the view!    Filesize:  29.07 KB  Filename:  PBJones_139.jpg  Viewed:  108 Time(s)    Filesize:  13.17 KB  Filename:  725360C.jpg  Viewed:  108 Time(s)
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csintexas millennium club Joined: 06 Feb 2006 Posts: 2174 Location: USA	Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:41 am    Post subject: I kind of like the effect - it makes it interesting. _________________ -Chris Stewart http://bcshdb.blogspot.com > The B/CS Home Design Blog
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SDR millennium club Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 1845 Location: San Francisco	Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:29 pm    Post subject: I agree -- it's the defining architectural interest in the room, from what I see. A nice effect, which I wish I had invented ! Thanks for the "view". . . SDR
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surjones Joined: 14 Mar 2009 Posts: 20	Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:38 pm    Post subject: Thanks guys for the info - however I dont like them. LOL - The question still stands. Do you guys think they are Load bearing. And please dont say yes cause you like them. hahaha They Drive me nuts
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SDR millennium club Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 1845 Location: San Francisco	Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:45 pm    Post subject: Yes, I'm pretty confident that they're active roof rafters. Unfortunately, there's no practical way to "bridge" them -- as there is when you want to remove some unwanted studs in a load-bearing wall, for instance. They could probably be perforated without harm, though, as long as the edges are left intact. SDR
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nanrehvasconez Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 329	Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:05 pm    Post subject: If you could find the manufacturer brand and model you probably will find the dead load the skylights are rated. In general dome or piramid skylights are rated at 20 psf Dead Load for rigid plexiglass, VELUX and other brands have flat tempered glass roof windows with the same rating. These skylights apparently were installed at the time the house was framed, therefore they passed building department plan check and inspection. If you are in a snow zone you may require 30 psf See Uniform Building Code Section 2409.1 through 2909.6 and Section 1605 for tributary loads.
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lekizz millennium club Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 1212 Location: UK	Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:39 am    Post subject: I like the wood too, but I guess you have to live there so it is your taste that ultimately counts. Maybe you could paint the members white. They would certainly be less of a feature if that was the case and, if dark wood comes back into fashion the next occupant can re-stain them.
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solidred Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 728 Location: Scotland	Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 6:24 am    Post subject: SDR's right, surely: what we see are the rafters that support the roof surface below and above the level of the skylight itself. Removing them would be like removing the bases from a collonade and expecting things to sorta float in mid-air. However, I'm sure there's a way around it if you're desperate to get rid of them. One could insert what are called trimmer joists between the continuous rafters either side of the desired opening, thus forming something for the 'cut' ends of the rafters visible here to rest on. You may also need to double up the continuous rafters either side in order to take the extra new load. All of which would involve ripping out the finishes, removing the new skylights whilst the structure is sorted and so on. I, too, think it looks great as it is but it ain't my house...
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88 Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 94 Location: usa	Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:20 am    Post subject: You cannot " peforate" them as this will weaken it. Paint it white so how it look.
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SDR millennium club Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 1845 Location: San Francisco	Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:21 am    Post subject: The exposed rafters act as beams for the ceiling plane. The stressed portion of a beam is at its edges -- the flanges, in a typical I-beam or Trus Joist. An open-web joist has stick members connecting the flanges. Of course you can judiciously perforate the web of a beam without seriously compromising its strength. Because of the nature of solid wood, I would propose that portions of the "web" of these rafters remaining after perforation should be reinforced with wood straps added on either side of those uncut areas, crossing their longitudinal grain and (ideally) glued and clamped. This could make interesting patterns for the light to catch, while visually lightening the appearance of the rafters. SDR
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svenglezz-ASMEIL Joined: 18 Nov 2004 Posts: 99 Location: Toronto	Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:31 am    Post subject: If I w'r you......I would go to the local tel. directory, call an engineer, Structrual. They will be able to look at it, (I would open up some of the drywall before hand). The engineer will then be able to help you with options, may even require some sketches for any additional requirments etc. So you better realy realy hate them it may cost some $$ to remove. Remember this is not some side garage window....it's your ROOF, better safe then sorry. _________________ ASMEIL Drawings and M&E Designs
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bkb Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 4	Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:39 am    Post subject: Triple up your rafters on either side of the skylights, then header off the open area. You should still consult an engineer, but it should be cheaper for him/her to "verify" rather than "design".
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SDR millennium club Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 1845 Location: San Francisco	Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:52 pm    Post subject: That's how it should have been built, certainly. To make those changes now would be far more expensive than most building owners would tolerate, I expect. I think the novelty of the present condition is interesting and (to me) attractive. Too bad the present occupant doesn't think so ! SDR
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bkb Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 4	Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:10 pm    Post subject: It could be done mostly from the top. Then you would only need to replace roof sheathing and shingles + some drywall patching inside. Besides, it would be a good opportunity to get out all the insulation that is probably now soggy and compressed and get some proper ventalation going.
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SDR millennium club Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 1845 Location: San Francisco	Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:58 pm    Post subject: Wouldn't it be easier, safer, and more comfortable, and destroy less expensive material, to do it from inside -- assuming the finish is Sheetrock ? SDR
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