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svenglezz-ASMEIL



Joined: 18 Nov 2004
Posts: 99
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by svenglezz-ASMEIL

can I see w'r those chimney stacks go? Smile please please Smile

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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

Well young fella, as far as I can tell, those chimney stacks go up. Wink
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cousineddie



Joined: 22 Aug 2008
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousineddie

Back with my wife in Tennessee,
one day she called to me,
eddie quick come see,
there goes the Robert E. Lee.
Now I don't mind in choppin wood,
and I dont care if my moneys no good,
just take what ya need and leave the rest,
but they should never have taken the very best.
The night they drove ol Dixie down....


Well I guess ole cousineddie was jist reminiscin about the time
way back when there was the war between the states,
(not that I was around back then mind ya),
but it seems like back in them days, folks saved and used just
about everything they could.
I been tryin the talk to cousinbirgco about the portance
of this, specialy when yur buildin stuff.
I been recyclin everything on the job site, cardboard,
plastic and any glass that might be leftover.
The town is very helpfull, they knowd the portance of it.
Cousinbirgco comin round slow like and I think hes startin ta listen a bit.
Normally he dont listen a lick, thinks his ole cousineddie is
simpleminded, but sometimes simple idees is the best idees. Smile
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cousineddie



Joined: 22 Aug 2008
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousineddie

Quote:
Hope to have the openers figured out in the
next couple of weeks, maybe this is one of cousineddie's remote areas
of obscure knowledge.


Well now is that a fact, seems to me more like cousinbirgcos
fancy way of saying theres another thing cousineddie
knows that he dont. Very Happy

Im always pleased to be learnin him a thing or two, but hes
stubbirn as the day is long.
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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

Now, moving on to more serious business, the radiant pex tubing
has been installed except for the manifolds. The 1/2 inch tubing was
stapled up to the subfloor using a pneumatic staple gun and
1/2 inch plastic staples specially made for the job.
The design of the staples and gun make it
virtually impossible to put a hole in the tubing. Two installers, a
rolling scaffold and the pneumatic staple gun make this a 3 day job
for about 2400 sq. ft. of floor coverage. About 12 inches of insulation
in the 14 inch sub-floor truss spaces will encourage the radiant heat to
move in one direction, up and into the living space above.
The usually difficult to insulate triangular spaces in the exterior ends of
each floor truss was filled with spray foam insulation and then
covered with 2" foam board.



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csintexas
millennium club


Joined: 06 Feb 2006
Posts: 2166
Location: USA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by csintexas

what is the purpose of adding foam board on top of sprayed in place foam?
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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

I've never had much luck in getting spray foam to stay exactly
where I want it. Unless you apply several thin applications
(time consuming) it sometimes tends to sag, especially if
it's wintertime and the central heating system isn't up and running .
The foam board acts as a clean cover for the mess and results
in a tighter seal on the end joist spaces, probably the
most neglected area of any insulation job. I am also a
bit paranoid about making sure the 2 inch air space
around the radiant tubing in each floor joist area remains
draft free. There's nothing like a little
mid-january breeze under your floor area to ruin a
great radiant heating system. Shocked
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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

Quote:
Well I guess ole cousineddie was jist reminiscin about the time
way back when there was the war between the states


cousineddie, you sure you're not a retired civil war soldier?
The way your knees were creakin the other day, I thought
it just might be a possibility. Very Happy
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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

The cellulose insulation arrived the other day and we are anxious
to get on with this project milestone. There have been dozens of
details requiring our attention and completion before
moving ahead, whole house ventilation and structured wiring to
mention a few. Double wall construction design also means
a few tedious tasks that I conveniently neglected to
mention before. (funny how the mind sometimes tends to avoid the obvious) Smile
Among the most important is blocking off any areas where
you don't want the cellulose to go,
such as window jambs, above knee wall ceilings, soffit vents and
utility chases. Scrap osb was used to seal off the window
jambs and cloth mesh for the areas above the second
floor knee walls. Like most jobs, taking care of the details
now means saving time and aggravation later.



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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

I forgot to mention why we chose blown cellulose
for insulating the house. IMHO, it is possibly the best
environmentally friendly insulation produced because it is
manufactured from recycled newspaper, has a low energy
production cost, a high per inch R value and is inexpensive
to buy and install. I think fiberglass is not only potentially
harmful, but doesn't do a great job of
sealing up stud cavities and areas with lots of pipes and wires.
Two part spray foam does a great job of insulating every nook
and cranny and has very high R-value but it always concerned
me that once installed, it could make future electrical or
plumbing work problematic at best. I had originally thought
about using cotton insulation but in addition to a much higher
installed cost than cellulose, it suffers from some of the same
installation drawbacks as fiberglass.
We finally got around to installing and air testing the living area
radiant heat manifolds. The manifolds come with a temperature
gage, flow meters, air bleeders and purge valves. The three
step process of cut, push and tighten the 1/2 inch pex
compression fittings made short work
of finishing up one of the last chores before moving ahead
with insulating our double-walled exterior envelope.



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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

Here are a few picts of the blown cellulose installation.
It is a dusty job requiring a dust mask, goggles and paper
coveralls but cellulose is environmentally friendly and the results
are superior to any fiberglass install.
The job requires two people, one to feed the insulation
into the blowing machine and one to handle the
hose/nozzle to feed the material into the walls and ceilings.
A white stretchy fabric material is stapled to the stud walls to hold the
dry insulation in place and it allows the installer to "see" and feel
inside the wall to be sure enough material is in place. It's critical to
use enough material (dense pack) or the cellulose will settle
within the wall cavity. I punched a hole in the fabric every
3 ft. (vertical) or so to minimize settling.
Now complete, the 11 inch double wall cavity is rated about R-38
with very little air movement through the wall cavity because of the
complete filling nature of the cellulose around all wiring, plumbing and obstructions.
Cellulose can also be installed "wet" with a special blowing
machine but must be done by professional installers. This
method is much faster than dry blowing and the material
should dry out in about 2 days but I didn't like the idea of
introducing moisture into the very dry and energy detailed
wall cavities.
It's really great to have all that nice warm insulation installed
now that the heating season is over. Smile



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cousineddie



Joined: 22 Aug 2008
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousineddie

Today I hads me some fun with ole cousinbirgco, maybe a
bits to much, think hes still a bit sore, but just the
same, he loves his fancy tecknologees so much, so I says
to him, here we are after more than a hundred years of
of yur so called buildin science, and your insulatin your house
with newspapers, see, its a good thing I been recyclin
my readin papers all these years.
Well lemme tell ya somethin, for once he nary said a word,
maybe the cat got his tonge, Laughing
He storms off mutterin something about gettin them
solar hot water tube collectors connected up on the roof.
Thats not goin to inpress me none.
I just might take a stroll over to the junk yard, git me up an
ole hot water tank, paint it black and make some real hot water,
that would show em a thing or too.
Like cousineddie always says, sometime the
simplist idees is the best idees. Very Happy
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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

One challenge when blowing dry cellulose into open areas
(such as an attic) in new or existing construction, is minimizing "blowback".
Blowback occurs because cellulose
is dry (dusty) and moving at high speed through the
blowing machine hose. We countered this by using several
1 1/2 inch pvc conduit extensions of varying lengths.
Plastic electrical conduit comes in 10 ft. lengths and is
easily cut to match the area you
need to reach. The cellulose can be controlled from flying
everywhere by letting it build up in one area into a pile
several feet high and slowly moving the conduit
extension left/ right or forward/backwards.
The built up pile of cellulose acts as as a filter and buffer so the
material stays where the installer wants it.
For the attic walls, we installed drywall along the 4 ft. high kneewall
and 4 feet up the angled roof rafters which created a kind of
large hopper to blow the cellulose into.
When this section was complete, another
horizontal section of drywall is installed and
again filled with cellulose. This method is a bit time
consuming but the drywall
makes a perfect containment area for the cellulose.
The hose was lowered down each bay to the floor and
then slowly drawn up as the cellulose compacts each space.
It is important to listen to the speed of the air in the
hose because a slight rumbling noise in the hose tells you
it's time to pull the hose up a bit to allow more cellulose into the space.
The effect of the 24 inches of blown cellulose on the
attic/bedroom area was immediate and dramatic.
This second floor space which just a few days earlier
was noticiably warmer than the first floor, was now
cool and very quiet. This summer should be a good test of how
effective the cellulose (R-38 and R-75) is at blocking solar gain
through the flat roof and angled rafter areas. If early results
are any indication, passive cooling should be all that is needed
to keep 90 degree summer heat at bay.
Next, DJ's favorite interior finishing material, drywall, gets a boost. Very Happy



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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

Plain old drywall is one of the most common interior finish materials
for a number of reasons, but most importantly, it is relatively
inexpensive to supply and install, satisfies local building
codes for protecting more flamable materials,
seals exterior walls against air infiltration and can give
the interior a good "blank slate" or foundation for more
aestetically interesting finishes such as wainscotting,
wood/tile combinations, wallpapers and decorative paint finishes.
Like an empty canvas, you are only limited by your imagination.
If you do any major drywall jobs, a drywall lift is an essential piece of
equipment to prevent back injury and make fitting
flat and angled ceilings more precise.
As previously mentioned, we used drywall in the attic area
as a containment area for the blown cellulose in the knee
walls and angled rafter areas. It also served as the primary
cellulose insulation catch in some small areas such as the back stairs
hall leading to the upper flat roof.
Paperless drywall is a relatively new product which seeks to eliminate
potential mold growth on standard drywall's paper surface. Mold growth on drywall can happen
especially in housing regions experiencing
high levels of humidity or dampness. It uses a kind of fiberglass
material on the surface instead of paper and tends to be a bit more expensive and a little more work to finish.
Using regular drywall should not pose any problems
for most folks providing indoor humidity levels are kept in the 30 -35% range especially during the winter months.
As also previously mentioned by another contributor,
it's a good idea to make sure the drywall you
are purchasing is made in the USA (if you live in the U.S. Surprised ) because
some imported drywall from China may have been improperly
manufactured and has caused major problems for some unfortunate homeowners, mainly in humid the South.



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cousinbirgco



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by cousinbirgco

During design and planning phases of this project, two issues had
concerned me, (one big and one small) but they were pushed to the background as the project lumbered ahead.

It seemed downright sacrilegious to build a super energy efficient house and then include central air conditioning as part of the package, (not to mention a kilowatt sucking refrigerator!) We made the decision early on to forego a CAC system, no matter how efficient the compressor or system claimed to be. I convinced myself the large roof overhangs, 3 porches, minimal north facing glass, ceiling fans and massive amounts of insulation and energy detailing would be enough to prevent summertime interior armageddon. It seemed counterproductive to push the envelope of minimizing energy consumption and then be undone by these all consuming blackholes. I also reasoned that those CAC funds could be better spent on improved solar hot water collectors, pv panels or energy efficient appliances.
A recent string of 90 degree days has been encouraging. Upstairs,
the attic/bedroom area maintained a reasonable 76 degrees throughout the day. Late August will be the real test but it seems reasonable to think similar results can be achieved.
The refrigerator will either be an kilowatt sipping Sunfrost or one of the latest Whirlpool models. (boasting the same energy consumption as a 60 watt lightbulb)
The "barn" doors are also good at catching the smallest breeze and
directing it up and into the main house.



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