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PinkyRingz
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 4
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 Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:43 am Post subject: Freestanding Porch, how to tie in roof? |
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On the gable side of my one story home, i wish to build a 12x16 covered deck. I have hauled in 16 yards of pure stone to bring the grade up to approximately 10" below the bottom of the door. I was going to build the deck on 6"x6" concrete post blocks. My question for the roof is do I construct the roof portion extremely close to the house without touching or what? I am not interested in installing a header for the porch or tying in the roof to the wall. I wish it to be a freestanding structure.
Any advice? |
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JWmHarmon
Joined: 15 Apr 2004
Posts: 112
Location: Ohio
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| Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 12:18 am Post subject: Free standing deck |
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First, check the building code in your area. It may dictate what you can or cannot do.
Second, consider building the deck as a free standing gazebo separated from the house. The space between the house and the gazebo/deck can be covered if desired by a fabric roof that attaches to both the house and the covered deck. It could also be left uncovered. If you have enough space between the house and the separate deck/gazebo you could build a connecting bridge or breezeway.
Do you have an overhang on the gable roof that would offer some protection from the weather? If so, then you could possibly build close to the house. Again, check your building codes.
What weather protection do you need between the deck and the house? This may determine your approach to the design.
_________________
When building or manufacturing always ask, "How will we recycle that?" - JWmHarmon |
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PinkyRingz
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 4
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| Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:44 am Post subject: |
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I have noticed that the gable end of the house (where my main entrance is located) tends to get a lot of rain blowing into that side of the house. My main concern is to shield the door from teh elements more then anything. Also to carry some of that rain water further away from the structure.
I dont have the room for a seperate gazebo walkway as teh field bed is awful close ( I'm not on it nor will the new structure impede access) and teh driveway is sandwhiched in. The covered porch will be really small (10' wide x 14' long).
I've decided to build it as a complete free standing structure but extremely close to the house.
Thanks. |
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SDR
millennium club
Joined: 02 Oct 2004
Posts: 1716
Location: San Francisco
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| Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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I admit I'm puzzled as to why you wish not to connect the new porch to the house, when that would seem to be the logical way to both stabilize the new construction and to provide weather protection over the entry on the rainiest side of the house.
SDR |
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PinkyRingz
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 4
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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| In all the reno's my company has seen that had anything to do with porches or decks, the majority of rot or decay was either started at, or accelerated where the porch or decks would tie into the house. Even with the proper flashing etc at the end of the day, thats where a joint in located and a breach in the homes weather shield layer. |
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SDR
millennium club
Joined: 02 Oct 2004
Posts: 1716
Location: San Francisco
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, that's true -- and I like the idea of the new structure as a separate entity. It just seems counter-intuitive as to the weather-protection issue. But perhaps Mr Harmon and you have it right -- again.
SDR |
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birgco
Joined: 01 May 2007
Posts: 302
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| Posted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 4:33 am Post subject: |
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I tend to agree with SDR's original instinct about tying the porch to the house for strength and stability. The porch should be viewed no differently than any other one story addition to a house except that it may not be fully enclosed or heated. Several strategies can be used to make a fully weather tight joint where the porch meets the house.
Use copper flashing so the vertical joint between flashing pieces can be locked and soldered.
Flashing and counter flashing the roof/side wall joint will add extra insurance if you're worried about wind driven rain.
Extend the flashing well up under the bottom piece of siding.
Keep the siding at least 6 inches away from the porch roof to prevent splashback and wicking of moisture into the siding and sheathing.
Use spacer blocks (or extra washers if bolting) behind the main rafter support beam to add ventilation between wood members and the sheathing.
Make sure the pitch of the porch roof is at least 3/12 (more the better) if using shingles.
Metal roofing (if the budget dictates) works well for lower pitched roofs.
I can appreciate building a separate porch/gazebo for design reasons but the joint between structures shouldn't be the determining factor. Hope this helps. |
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