fireplace with a steel plate firebox, anyone do this?


 
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emcee



Joined: 27 Sep 2004
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2004 10:05 am    Post subject: fireplace with a steel plate firebox, anyone do this? Reply with quoteFind all posts by emcee

I'm detailing a concrete masonry fireplace that we want to line with a 1/4" steel plate firebox. I imagine the 1/4" steel plate will have no issues with the temperatures other than some expansion/contraction. The other issue is finish. Is high temperature primer and paint sufficient? That's what they use on heavy gauge sheet metal fireplaces.........

I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has real experience/knowledge with a similar scenario.

thanks.

emcee
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zeth01



Joined: 01 Nov 2004
Posts: 3
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 1:32 pm    Post subject: fire box Reply with quoteFind all posts by zeth01

first of all why use steele plate and not fire brick? im sure it could be done but it wont turn out good. try contact OSHA to see if they hae any recommendations tey should be able to tell yopu wether that steele plate will hold up and its going to look horrible and turn black rather fast. how are you planning on mounting this? i wouldnt install something you dont have a clue about. maybe you should contact your local union for information or look online or find an experienced contractor.
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emcee



Joined: 27 Sep 2004
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:18 am    Post subject: fireplace Reply with quoteFind all posts by emcee

zeth,

i know for a fact per the building code that you can use 1/4" plate steel as a firebox. a brick firebox is not the aesthetic we're looking for. We're going to build this, we're not clueless, just looking for someone with previous experience in this type of assembly for some hints. We're working slip connections in between the steel and the concrete. We actually appreciate the blackening of stainless steel plate by the fire.

best,

mario
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P.C.
millennium club


Joined: 26 May 2004
Posts: 2163
Location: Denmark

PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by P.C.

Hi

There are several things you shuld consider. First you must keep a high temperture in the room where you have the fire, ---- this mean that even you think it sound vierd you must ensure some fireproven insulation as this way the heat in the room is so high that what you burn will burn correctly. You will profit from the heat anyway but the chamber need to be fittet with special stones, there are a reson for them and that is highing the temperture not insulating as such. The better "isolated" the better a flame the better an fire economy the cleaner an oven.
Then cast iron alway's worked better than steel sheets just you know it, but even cast iron will burn away unprotected still it will not buckle and bend.
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TLWalkerAIA



Joined: 16 Apr 2004
Posts: 129
Location: Seattle Washington, USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by TLWalkerAIA

Laughing

P.C. has me laughing and his comment should not be taken too seriously.

I have a great deal of experience with this particular subject and was formerly the R&D director of a conpany that manufactured steel plate frestanding stoves and steel plate inserts for fireplaces.

There is no probem with lining the firebox with plate steel. Use the high temperature paint used by the plate steel stove manufacturers inside and out. Pay attention to the smoke chamber and flue connection. Follow the code and you will be fine.

Additionally you could prefabricate the entire fireplace and place the masonry around it. These "heat forms used to be quite common and were called Built-In Circulators. One such manufacturer was the "DONLEY" conpany. This approach empowers the Firebox, heating chamber, the throat, damper, smoke shelf, conbustion air inlet and Smke chamber to be carefully engineered and tested. This is not a zero clearance fireplace but a form that the masonry is built around. Good Luck !! "Heatforms" of this kind are still being manufactured or you could design your own.

GOOD LUCK


Terry

_________________
Terry L. Walker, AIA
Terry L. Walker, Architects
terry.walker20@verizon.net
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emcee



Joined: 27 Sep 2004
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2004 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by emcee

Terry,

Thank you for your helpful reply. I will research DONLEY products for a little more information. We are casting the fireplaces as we speak and will custom fabricate the steel fireboxes afterwards. We contemplated using the steel firebox as one side of the formwork but decided we didn't want to lock the steel in to the concrete, preferring to allow them to move independently if necessary.

Best,

Mario
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P.C.
millennium club


Joined: 26 May 2004
Posts: 2163
Location: Denmark

PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2004 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by P.C.

Hi

This could be a bit off/topic but it deal with the chimny and windvane --- sorry if this is not right spelled, but reson I bring up the subject is a socalled vindvane that is designed very different but also work much better than the ones used for both ventilation and fumes esp. in england btw. ------- I seen intire acer roofs covered with turnable vindvanes, you know this type where a small flipper make the wind turn the intire top so the wind don't blow down the tube ---- then when wind change the top turn to another direction look quite silli when a huge roof are covered with these ------- anyway you also se the type as an H or T type vindvane where the idear is that wind that trap down the tube is cheated out the bottom again instead of blockig the smoke inside the chimny --- are you getting to what I mean ?
Well there are a type that I tested myself that don't look silli that work activly even with no moving part one that make a vaccum just where this shuld be, so the more wind the wilder the wind the more vaccum inside the chimny.
Now I know that under cirtain circumstances it can be a huge problem if there are open doors if the fireplace is not warm and the wind is wild , but I tested this vindvane just under these and the way it is made it simply work with no problems beside it don't noise as no moving parts have a drawing of one somwhere.
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pintopete



Joined: 16 Dec 2004
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 4:36 pm    Post subject: Fireplace steel firebox replacement Reply with quoteFind all posts by pintopete

My home was built in 1930 and it has a beautiful stone fireplace and chimney. The fireplace firebox is a thin steel material (approx 1/8") with an air space around it that allows air from the room to convect through registers built in the stone facia. These fireplace designs seem somewhat common in my area and I have always heard them referred to as heatilator fireplaces. The fireplace in my home worked very well and delivered a lot of heat into the room, but the flue does not close properly and the metal has begun to warp significantly and pull away from the stone and mortar. It is in need of replacement or serious repair. If you saw the stone and masonry work, the removal of stone etc. is not an option. How does one go about repairing this problem? Thanks, Peter.
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