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cinnamon
Joined: 07 Jun 2004
Posts: 2
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RWL
Joined: 10 May 2004
Posts: 399
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 Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:31 am Post subject: |
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I'd center the new dormers on the windows with or without shutters. Use the same roof pitch as that on the exisiting dormer, even though the size and rise may differ. Best to make both new dormers the same.
At least don't make the mistake like the left edge of the exisiting dormer-- right ar the side of the window.
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cinnamon
Joined: 07 Jun 2004
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:00 am Post subject: dormers |
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Ok, thanks for confirming my assumption - that the dormer roofs should have the same slope as the gable end. We are extending the roof line of that gable end while we're at it by the way - even though it does crowd that window.
Now do you know how to size the dormers? Do you know if the inside ever of the dormer should line up with the outside edge of the window, or if there is a rule about shutters and dormers?
a rule of thumb on these subjects would be really helpful.
:P Thanks again,
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RWL
Joined: 10 May 2004
Posts: 399
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:35 am Post subject: |
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Try this web site for info on framing dormers--
http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/framing/frame_6.htm#dormer
Also, search under "dormer framing" for other sources
There is no rule of thumb that I know of-- you can crowd the side of the window or move outward from it to size the dormer as you wish [I suggest you not size it too close to the side of tthe windows, for appearance purposes!]
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Dzynguy
Joined: 11 Jul 2004
Posts: 1
Location: Monroe, North Carolina
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| Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hi:
Coming from an Architect with 17 yrs in custom residential design, I would choose a window as close to the width of the windows below, or smaller by 1/3. You're correct to maintain the same roof pitch. I definitely would not add shutters; but, would make the dormers no less than a finished dimension of 8" from the edge of the window brick mould and the outside of the corner stile---------12" may be preferable, for this allows enough "reveal" of the siding to add shadow lines and character to the dormer(s). I would also consider making the eave (side) soffit overhangs about 9" or 10", and the rake (gable) overhang about 6". I would then make a 10" finished dimension return on either side of the dormer, with the return having a hip roof on the same pitch as the dormer and not having the return roof "gable" back into the dormer, this looks cheap and as if it was built by a plain carpenter without much experience, rather than a skilled craftsman of a carpenter. The less return soffit overhang will allow for the fascia, soffit, crown moulding, and frieze board from the dormer gable to rest upon the dormer roof, rather than the soffits being identical in overhang everywhere----------I will guarantee that the dormer will have far more character and curb appeal than you ever imagined......and you will be proud. Also, if you are condidering repainting the home, I would consider painting the corner stiles slightly darker or slightly lighter than the body of the house....you will be amazed at what just a few little things can add to your home.
Home this helps, and the very best of luck !!!!
.....Brian
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donadam
Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 2
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donadam
Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2004 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Donald
Thanks for your inputs. I am not up to replacing the dormer roof, as I just had the whole house re-roof done, including all new plywood underlayment (at quite an expense), but you are right about the winter ice build up. I also get some water in the walls, especially during a cold winter, like the last one. It's not surprising that the water usually appears on the first floor wall right in the area of the dormer. So, if I understand this right, the water gets under the sidies of the dormer and works its way down the wall. Sealing that area should solve some of my problems. Also, the other problem with this area is that the rooms below this area have sloping ceilings for about 4ft and there is no air flow through there as it is filled completely with old insulation. I am in the process of going through each room and removing the ceiling, installing baffles and insulatingso there is air movement from the eaves to the new ridge vent in the attic. That should help with the ice build up.
As for the hardiplank siding material, any disadvantages?
Thanks,
_________________
donadam |
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