Skylight load-bearing?

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surjones



Joined: 14 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Skylight load-bearing? Reply with quoteFind all posts by surjones

Hey guys great forum and excited to be here! Im starting a project and curious what everyone things I have never seen a skylight with load-bearing running through the middle of the view!

Each Skylight has Two 2x12's - In the pics you the 80's brown woodpanel braded to the studs. (which has now been removed now) lol

Of course the goal is to remove these and open up the view!



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csintexas
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by csintexas

I kind of like the effect - it makes it interesting.
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SDR
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

I agree -- it's the defining architectural interest in the room, from what I see. A nice effect, which I wish I had invented ! Thanks for the "view". . .

SDR
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surjones



Joined: 14 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by surjones

Thanks guys for the info - however I dont like them. LOL - The question still stands. Do you guys think they are Load bearing. And please dont say yes cause you like them. hahaha They Drive me nuts Smile
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SDR
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

Yes, I'm pretty confident that they're active roof rafters. Unfortunately, there's no practical way to "bridge" them -- as there is when you want to remove some unwanted studs in a load-bearing wall, for instance.

They could probably be perforated without harm, though, as long as the edges are left intact.

SDR
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nanrehvasconez



Joined: 25 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by nanrehvasconez

If you could find the manufacturer brand and model you probably will find the dead load the skylights are rated.

In general dome or piramid skylights are rated at 20 psf Dead Load for rigid plexiglass, VELUX and other brands have flat tempered glass roof windows with the same rating.

These skylights apparently were installed at the time the house was framed, therefore they passed building department plan check and inspection.

If you are in a snow zone you may require 30 psf

See Uniform Building Code Section 2409.1 through 2909.6 and Section 1605 for tributary loads.
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lekizz
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by lekizz

I like the wood too, but I guess you have to live there so it is your taste that ultimately counts.

Maybe you could paint the members white. They would certainly be less of a feature if that was the case and, if dark wood comes back into fashion the next occupant can re-stain them.
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solidred



Joined: 05 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by solidred

SDR's right, surely: what we see are the rafters that support the roof surface below and above the level of the skylight itself. Removing them would be like removing the bases from a collonade and expecting things to sorta float in mid-air. However, I'm sure there's a way around it if you're desperate to get rid of them. One could insert what are called trimmer joists between the continuous rafters either side of the desired opening, thus forming something for the 'cut' ends of the rafters visible here to rest on. You may also need to double up the continuous rafters either side in order to take the extra new load. All of which would involve ripping out the finishes, removing the new skylights whilst the structure is sorted and so on.
I, too, think it looks great as it is but it ain't my house...
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88



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by 88

You cannot " peforate" them as this will weaken it. Paint it white so how it look.
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SDR
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

The exposed rafters act as beams for the ceiling plane. The stressed portion of a beam is at its edges -- the flanges, in a typical I-beam or Trus Joist. An open-web joist has stick members connecting the flanges. Of course you can judiciously perforate the web of a beam without seriously compromising its strength.

Because of the nature of solid wood, I would propose that portions of the "web" of these rafters remaining after perforation should be reinforced with wood straps added on either side of those uncut areas, crossing their longitudinal grain and (ideally) glued and clamped. This could make interesting patterns for the light to catch, while visually lightening the appearance of the rafters.


SDR
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svenglezz-ASMEIL



Joined: 18 Nov 2004
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Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by svenglezz-ASMEIL

If I w'r you......I would go to the local tel. directory, call an engineer, Structrual.

They will be able to look at it, (I would open up some of the drywall before hand).

The engineer will then be able to help you with options, may even require some sketches for any additional requirments etc.

So you better realy realy hate them Smile it may cost some $$ to remove.

Remember this is not some side garage window....it's your ROOF, better safe then sorry.

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bkb



Joined: 31 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by bkb

Triple up your rafters on either side of the skylights, then header off the open area. You should still consult an engineer, but it should be cheaper for him/her to "verify" rather than "design".
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SDR
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

That's how it should have been built, certainly. To make those changes now would be far more expensive than most building owners would tolerate, I expect. I think the novelty of the present condition is interesting and (to me) attractive. Too bad the present occupant doesn't think so !

SDR
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bkb



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by bkb

It could be done mostly from the top. Then you would only need to replace roof sheathing and shingles + some drywall patching inside. Besides, it would be a good opportunity to get out all the insulation that is probably now soggy and compressed and get some proper ventalation going.
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SDR
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

Wouldn't it be easier, safer, and more comfortable, and destroy less expensive material, to do it from inside -- assuming the finish is Sheetrock ?



SDR
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