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Matt_H
Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 2
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 Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:47 pm Post subject: Floor heating vs. Furnace type |
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Building my first house this spring / summer and still working out some of the details, Its a fairly small 1000 Sq. Ft home with a 4 car garage 
Im wondering on the pros. & cons of floor heating.
Is it more efficient, more expensive (any prices?), easier or harder to install then a furnace?
If it is 1000sq. ft home, do you have to heat the entire 1000 sq. ft or do you just do portions of each room?
Im leaning toward floor heating, something I think I would prefer but could be wrong, not knowing anything about it.
Theres alot of questions about a few different things ill post about later, but for now any help would be appreciated. |
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phansford
Joined: 18 Apr 2004
Posts: 555
Location: SW Ohio
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| Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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First - where are you located and is radiant floor heating a common method used locally. Each region of the country has different methods. Here in Ohio - Forced air is most common and its hard to find HVAC contractors with enough experience with radiant floor heating - in particular residential installers.
Second - there is typically a fresh air requirement - meaning you need a forced air system (maybe a heat pump) that can provide fresh air...... so you end up installing two heating systems.
Third - if you are going to add cooling to your house (air conditioning), it will require ducts as residential cooling is typically forced air - so you're installing duct work away.
The cost of radiant floor heating is typically more expensive than forced air, then having to add a forced air system to provide fresh air usually kills the idea for my clients.
Hope that gives you the quick overview. |
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birgco
Joined: 01 May 2007
Posts: 302
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| Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Matt, I have lived in several houses with radiant floor heat and once you experience it, it's hard to live with anything else. The initial cost factor is an issue but a radiant heat system is usually more efficient to operate than baseboard or hot air and if you are handy you can install the pex tubing/plastic brackets, and manifolds yourself and have a plumber/heat technician hook it up to the boiler. Slant Fin and other radiant heat companies offer a system of boiler, manifolds and temp. mixing valves that make it fairly simple to install this kind of central heat. It's also advisable to hook up an outside temperature censor that works with the boiler circulating pumps. As the exterior temp drops, the temp. sensor speeds up the circulator pump (like a car accelerator pedal) which eliminates the lag that would occur if the system waited for interior temps to cool down before sending heat to the floor. Slant Fin should also be able to put you in touch with a company engineer or outside source who will design the system for you for a reasonable fee.
The best thing about the system is the very efficient method of pumping warm water (90 F- 130F) through the underside of your floors. You may also want to think about having a solar panel evacuated tube system supply the warm water to the floors. Long term, a solar powered radiant system is a smart move with escalating gas and oil costs. A mudjob and tile works best for finish floor materials but wood floors also are an option (just be sure to use wood that is stable, not too wide and well acclimated to the interior climate before installation).
Radiant heat for your planned house would be similar to having a 1000 sq. ft. radiator and because the floor heats objects and people and not the air. occupants of the house can be comfortable with air temps of 65 F or less rather than 70 - 75F that some systems require for people to feel warm. No warm/cold drafty blowing vents, dust or radiators to obstruct furniture and seating arrangements. You can do portions of the house, bathrooms and/or kitchen, but it makes more economic sense to do the whole house because you need the same basic mechanicals for small or large jobs. It's a good idea to put a bit more tubing in the bathroom floors and zone them seperately. With a well insulated bathroom and radiant floor heat, you can leave the bathroom fan off during hot showers with no foggy mirrors or cold feet, an especially nice feature on cold winter mornings. |
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Matt_H
Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:19 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, those posts helped alot.
I am actually a bit embarrassed, I havent really researched the floor heat before, but growing up the house we lived in had floor heat with temperature controls in each room, and I was thinking it was all electric powered and didnt consist of any of that.
I live southwest of chicago, il.
I bought 5 acres of land in the country to build on and at 24 yrs old I am new at this.
I do plan on cooling the home also, which I know I will have to install duct work, so thats a +1 for installing a forced air furnace, the ducts will already be there...
I was more concered I suppose with the space a furnace would take up, A/C Units sit outside but furnaces take up a good amount of space.
I have considered solar panels, but they also seem quite expensive.. cost & installation. |
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csintexas
millennium club
Joined: 06 Feb 2006
Posts: 1860
Location: USA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:28 am Post subject: |
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Usually only the compressor sits out side with a conventional AC system the furnace or heat exchanger and blower are inside.
_________________
Chris Stewart
Modern Texas Home Project |
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phansford
Joined: 18 Apr 2004
Posts: 555
Location: SW Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:40 am Post subject: |
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Matt,
There are systems that you can install in bathrooms or other small places where you might want a "warm floor". They are typically electrical and are controlled within the room. They are basically a supplement used to warm tile floors.
http://www.wattsradiant.com/homeowner/electricradiant.asp
THIS OLD HOUSE has used these types of localized systems before. Then again, they use the radiant floor systems you are referring to in your original post, but boiler systems in houses are standard in New England.
I'm thinking Chicago is about the same as us in in SW Ohio. You probably are going to find the local HVAC contractors are more familar with forced air. Call around and ask before you decide. See what is being used locally and if anyone knows how to install the system. You might be in an area that uses radiant floor and it might be economical.
Good Luck |
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birgco
Joined: 01 May 2007
Posts: 302
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| Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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Matt,
Don't give up on the idea of powering your radiant heat with solar panels until you check with your state dept. of energy. They may have rebate programs which could greatly reduce startup costs. Also, there are state and federal tax benefits you may want to look into when determining total cost.
Another idea you should consider is cooling your house using the radiant tubing. I haven't personally done this for cooling but apparently the technology works.
A final issue to think about is how your project could help to reduce greenhouse pollution while making yourself more independent from the oil and utility companies.
Best of luck with your new house. |
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Ed B
Joined: 23 Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 7:21 am Post subject: radiant heat vs. forced air |
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Matt,
You can have the best of both worlds, warm floors and air conditioning by using a hybrid system.
I am a heating contractor in upstate New York and have had very good success with this type of system.
The heart of the system starts with a boiler.
We recommend a high-efficiency condensing boiler (95% efficiency).
You can install the duct system with an air handler that contains a blower, air conditioning coil and hot water coil.
You could also install plastic tubing (PEX) beneath the subfloor to warm the floors.
When the thermostat calls for heat, the fan is turned on in the air handler, warm water is pumped through the hot water coil and the tubing beneath the floor.
You can have an efficient source for domestic hot water by installing an indirect fired water heater as a zone off the boiler.
If designed properly the duct system and floor warming would run at the same time, giving you head-to-toe comfort.
The key is proper control.
Actually the key is a WELL insulated house. We recommend open cell spray foam and a controlled ventilation system.
A great control strategy is a weather responsive control that regulates the water temperature according to outdoor conditions as well as indoor temperature.
The fan speed can also speed up or slow down as the water temperatures change.
There are many advantages to this type of system:
1) It is a very comfortable even heat, no temperature swings
2) You have air conditioning and warm floors
3) The weather responsive control system can save approximately 10% - 15% on your energy bills
4) A duct system gives you the infrastructure for air purification and a conduit to bring in fresh outside air.
5) Only one combustion appliance for heat and hot water
6) Less penetrations for venting
7) A boiler is a long-lasting appliance.
You will pay more up front for this type of system.
The price difference between this type vs. a warm air furnace system would be the price of the boiler.
However, you will get this back with energy savings and a long warranty as well as only having to maintain one combustion appliance.
You can also install the floor warming tubing in certain rooms and if you find you really like it you can always install it under other areas at a later date.
Hope this helps.
Below are some web sites we created I think you'll find helpful.
Ed B
Enhanced Living, Inc
[/quote][/b]Uncompromising Indoor Climate Solutions
[url]www.heating-and-air-conditioning-guide.com
[/url]uncompromisinghomes.com
[url]enhancedliving.net[/url] |
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