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cbrian
Joined: 04 May 2005
Posts: 1
Location: Texas
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 Posted: Wed May 04, 2005 11:17 pm Post subject: Cross and barrel vault construction methods |
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| As a builder in south Texas I have never had the chance to build anything more than a flat sheetrocked ceiling. I am interested in learning new construction methods to create a more custom look in high end houses. I have looked everywhere and have had no luck in locating a site or books that describe how to build cross vault ceilings, barelled ceiling, dome, ect. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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RWL
Joined: 10 May 2004
Posts: 399
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| Posted: Thu May 05, 2005 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Might start with Frank Ching's book, BUILDING CONSTRUCTION ILLUSTRATED.
Also, try U.S. Gypsum for information about gyp bd. shapes and details.
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JWmHarmon
Joined: 15 Apr 2004
Posts: 110
Location: Ohio
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olrac_ed
Joined: 17 Jul 2005
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:06 am Post subject: barrel vault construction |
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We have been building barrel vaulted ceilings for the past few years and customers just love them. This is the way we build them. Depending on the height of the barrel, we sometimes order cathedral ceiling trusses to get more of a clearance for the vault or it can also be installing under a second floor situation. We have never exceeded a vault size that exceeds the length of a 16' - 1x3, but I'm sure this technique can be modified to suit larger vaults.
We usually let the insulators install the insulation and the vapor barrier and then start our work. If installing the vault under trusses, then nail strips of 1x3 to the underside of the trusses at 2' spacings (perpendicular to the trusses) to provide some stability and to keep the insulation batts from falling through the vapor barrier. For the barrel vault, make sure the 1x3 are soaking wet so they will bend easily.
Determine the height of the bottom of the vault. Snap a line for the total length of the vault on both sides of the room.
Nail a piece of 2x4 vertically along the line so that the bottom of the 2x4 is at the chalk line.
With wet pieces of 1x3, determine a curve you would like to have by putting the 1x3 up and cutting it until the desired length is obtained.
Build a ridge beam from 2x6 and hang it from the underside of the trusses, being careful not to break the vapor barrier. We usually cut triangular pieces to fit into the apex of the truss every 3 trusses, so that the bottom length of the triangle is about 16". Then we install 2x4 hangars from those pieces and connect the 2x6 so it is level across the length of the room.
Once the ridge beam is installed, mark the corresponding wall stud spacings on the ridge beam.
Cut a number of the 1x3 to the desired length and mark the mid point.
Install a 1x3 at the first wall stud location so that it will go over the vertical 2 x 4 that is on one side wall and put a screw or nail in it ( I use 2½ screws).
Slowly bend the other side until the bottom of the 1 x3 is in the same position as the other side wall and put a screw in it.
Screw in the 1x3 to the ridge at the mid point that was marked with 2 screws to the corresponding wall stud mark.
Continue until all of the 1 x3 are installed.
You will notice that all of the 1 x3 are not in the same plane.
To straighten this out, take 3½ steel studs and fasten them perpendicular to the top side (closest to the truss side) of the 1x3 and fasten them with 2 drywall screws. In a 14' wide room we install 2 equal rows each side of center.
You can install hangar wire if you wish, but since the whole ceiling is now in compression, it would be very difficult for it to collapse.
We use regular ½ drywall and lay it in the long direction same as the steel stud direction.
Please contact me if you have any questions. I have attached several pictures to show the finished look.
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